La Paz to Rurrenabaque
19.9.09
Click this link first for the Photos before reading the blog.
Our arrival into La Paz couldn’t be more perfectly timed as it was to be Stuart’s 40th birthday just around the corner.
And what was Stuart’s ultimate wish for his birthday?
It was to get away from the brown, brown, brown and head to the green, green, green. He wanted humidity, sunshine, hammocks, sea level, birds, wildlife and..... some low altitude beer! And what Stuart wanted was what he got. The 10 days in the Amazon seemed to completely fulfill his wish list.
We did our maths and determined that our budget couldn’t afford a two way 40 min flight, so we purchased our 21 hour bus ride ticket to Rurrenabaque for a fraction of the price of the flight.
And my, don’t you get what you paid for. We shopped around for a tour agent and where we were promised a semi cama (semi bed) luxury coach. The imagery looked good. What can be so bad? The tour agent kept modifying his price, leaving us feeling little skeptical about his business. We politely thanked him for (virtually) nothing and made our own way to the bus terminal to sniff out what deal we could find for ourselves.
Soon enough we were boarded on our rust bucket of a bus with eye-patches and i-pod in hand and set off on our journey. We watched the city disappear as the scenery changed to high snow capped peaks and then funnel into gorges, traversing through the Yungas (temperate forest perfect for Coca growing) and eventually spill out into the Jungle itself.
The old route to Coroico, about 50km out of La Paz, is the famous renowned ‘death road’ which has lost more people over the edge than anywhere else in the world. It’s not that there are anymore fatalities than any other un-barricaded single lane road. It is just that if you go over that crumbly cliff edge, it is all over red rover. Now, however, it is a popular route for cyclists wanting an adrenaline rush and less used by large vehicles these days.
Thankfully in the past few years a new road to Coroico has been paved on the opposite side of the gorge. The scenery was both sensational and scary. Within hours of La Paz, the new road dramatically dropped from an altitude of 4600m (La Cumbre) to 1700m (Coroico), where the humidity of the tropics started to seep through bus windows.
It was not long after Coroico that the paving ran out. The bus weaved onto the single lane dirt road into a canyon with a dramatic drop on the left to the river and some villages below. Locals splashed about the river bathing, washing their clothes and collecting water for cooking. From such great heights, it was fascinating to see these miniature people content with their simple primitive life. Perched on steep terrain, we could see adobe mud houses and numerous coca farms across the river valley. There were no roads leading to these farms, only flying foxes to cart their produce across stream at great height.
Rickety-rack-bump-bump-bump. It was at this point I was wondering if there was a chiropractor on board. This heap of metal was well and truly overdue for new set of Pedders shock absorbers. The bus would swerve around the beds, its bald tyres just gripping onto the road as the edges crumbled and tumbled down the cliff. Add to this fear, the road was only a single lane and there seemed to be a lot of traffic coming the other way.
When we encountered another vehicle from the opposite direction our overly generous bus driver would stop and reverse around the bends on the outside edge every time. This was a little nerve racking, as when looking out the window, there actually appeared to be no edge to the road. The reversing became so regular that I began to wonder if we were going to end up back in La Paz. He was patient and very, very skilled. I take my hat off to him but never ever again do I want to take that bus!
We arrived in steamy Rurrenabaque after sunrise and immediately warmed to it, literally. By the time we found our hotel we were already dripping in sweat and blessed the thought of a cold shower (for once!).
The town itself resembled a lazy laid back south east asian town. Locals zipped around with 5 to a scooter, moto-taxis lounged under thatched roofed awnings and the streets were luscious and green. Cafes and restaurants were often wall-less and always window-less, framed only by their thatched roofs. There was one common theme between restaurants and clubs: Rurrenabaque’s very own special anthem ‘Welcome to the Jungle’ by Guns and Roses.
We found our hotel and strolled down to a local cafe for breakfast passing time until the check-in hour. It was as I was spreading butter and scrambled eggs on my toast two playful street dogs caught my attention. They were young and discovering the joys of consorting as adults. I sometimes wondered if they knew who was the male, and who was the female. It was difficult to make out at a distance. Trying to ignore the carry on, we switched our focus back to our breakfast, but it was difficult as they were smack in the middle of the intersection. And then it was impossible to ignore as somehow the dogs had incorporated themselves into a game of twister. Yes, the dogs were stuck tail to tail and looking somewhat embarrassed as cars and motorcycles had to continually swerve to avoid them. It was a painful consortship gone wrong. We felt a little sorry for them but decided we weren’t in a position to help them so left them behind thinking they will sort it out for themselves somehow....
After a refreshing shower and swing in the hammock we set out on foot to enquire about a Jungle tour with some tour companies. Madidi Travel had been highly recommended to us from Marion in La Paz as the proprietor, Rosa Marie Ruiz, was a major voice in the founding of Madidi National Park and promoting eco-tourism in the Bolivian Amazon. She has been a strong advocate for teaching indigenous people against exploitation in logging, wild animal hunting and land abuse. Sadly a reality that is still very present today.
Feeling optimistic and willing to pledge our support we paid for our tour and continued our day by returning to the hammocks.
It was the following afternoon we dropped into the Madidi Travel office to read an article featured in National Geographic (March 2000) featuring Rosa Marie Ruiz (Highly recommended read if you have a copy). After which, we leisurely strolled out the door chatting to the staff on the verandah only to find the two same dogs still stuck in their predicament. This was getting more disconcerting as it had now been a good 28 hours since we left them at the cafe. Moto-taxis slowed down and went around them without concern as they painfully looked exhausted of ideas on how to disentangle themselves. .
We queried the staff as to whether there was a veterinarian or an animal rescue nearby. We had seen posters for wild animal shelters but apparently and amazingly there was no veterinarian in town. No one was willing to go near a street dog for fear of catching rabies. We left, again feeling bemused by the situation but found out the next day they had disentangled themselves and were free again!
Our tour started with a 2 ½ hour ride down the Rio Beni to ‘Serere Natural Reserve’, a large multi thousand hectare private property. Rosa Marie Ruiz purchased this property, which contains 5 large lagoons, as a measure to try and further protect more animals and forestry outside Madidi NP. She was concerned that the National Park protection was still insufficient for the flora and fauna.
And what a stunning piece of property it is.
Our guide, Seonin, was of indigenous descent and had spent his whole life amongst the forest. He was a remarkable man, as he could mimic and call upon various species of monkeys, caimans (alligators), snakes and birds. He knew the ins and outs of the jungle, the insects you could eat, and how to make native medicines. He seemed to have a 6th sense for spotting animals at all levels of the jungle – from the forest floor to the heights of the canopy. If I was going to be lost in the jungle, I would want to be lost with him.
Our accommodation was amazing. Each mosquito meshed wall-less and thatched roof cabin was set isolated within the jungle to enable us, the guests, to fully immerse ourselves into the surrounds and sounds of nature. We slept to an orchestra of the forest with only a mosquito net as our protection. We were left relatively alone in the Amazon, with only one other neighboring couple nearby; Mike and Amanda from San Francisco.
Our jungle walk started from the common eating lodge beside a lake, a good kilometre away from our cabin. Outside the lodge, capucino, howler and squirrel monkeys came down to feed off bananas. We were told these were a rare treat for them. We gingerly strolled through the jungle, keeping our steps light and our voices soft so as to not alarm any wildlife. There were trails of dancing leaves along the paths, as leaf cutter ants carried their share to the nest. It was beautiful to watch these little creatures hard at work. They worked with such efficiency - It was hard to believe they were “Bolivian”.... ;^) Iridescent electric blue Morpho butterflies the size of birds fluttered by, never stopping too long for a pose. Monkeys flaunted their acrobatic skills overhead, fire ants hollowed out trees, macaws flocked in lovers pairs, boars left their fresh prints in the mud and mosquitos feasted well on our gringo flesh. The forest was dense, green and fertile. The sounds came even more to life as we walked back through the jungle in the dark of night for dinner.
Ruiz has done and excellent job of keeping everything in its primitive and natural state. A small plot of land is dedicated to organically grown fruit and vegetables and free roaming chicken, as well as the fish in the lakes. All the cooking, eating and accommodation is done under candlelight. The staff were all indigenous locals and certainly were well trained as chefs and hosts.
After our jungle walk the next morning, we returned to our cabin for a siesta and I heard a tree being ripped apart nearby. Above us was a muscular anteater shredding an opening in a major branch in search of a feast. He was a beauty and remarkably close. He didn’t mind us watching as we stood with fascination and marveled at his skill and strength. I wondered how many ants it would take to fill that big boy anyway.
After our siesta and the anteater the true highlight was unveiled as we set out on a canoe, peacefully rowing the perimeter of the lake. It was at this point you could really gauge the density of jungle as the forest’s trees cascaded down into the water. Each tree housed numerous different animal species. Never in our lives had we seen greater biodiversity as this. The trees had monkeys and birds of innumerable species, the reeds & lillies had dragonflies & insects. There were caimans watching, majestic herons fishing and fish escaping all around us on the lake. At one point we pulled up beside the water’s edge and the dense forest of birds-of-paradise to watch dozens of squirrel monkeys at close view un-bothered by our presence. They were coming down to feed on the insects near the water and playfully flirted with us. Nearby, we watched a particular bird mimic up to 23 other bird calls. It was all simply amazing.
Rosa Marie Ruiz was with us for the canoe journey and she humbly told us a story how she used to swim this lake daily. She tells me this from behind, I have one ear to her and my eyes are staring back at a caiman in the water. ‘I am thinking she is crazy. This water is laced with alligators.’ ‘It wasn’t always like this,’ she says. ‘The lake was closed and I swam across every day. One season, the rains came and opened up the mouth of the lake to the river and caimans migrated in. I was halfway back from the other side and one got me. I fought it off but it mangled my leg. We don’t let the staff or guests swim in the lake anymore.’ Her tale was told as if it was just another day in the jungle. Here she is, so calm, so gentle and with so much passion and understanding for the forest. And here I am squealing and squatting at everything that landed on me. It was enough to make me almost jump out of the boat.....if it wasn’t for the caimans.
We rowed back in silence, taking in all we could of the sounds of the forest and colours of the sunset on the ripple less lake.
Our third day at ‘Serere’ was Stuart’s birthday and the staff generously brought in a delicious chocolate birthday cake for breakfast. It was very nice of them. Even more so was that Stuart got to choose the activity of the morning. He wanted no more than to see a Capybara (the world’s largest rodent). We set out through the jungle to cross over to the furthest of the five lakes. Sadly, when we got there the boat was sinking and not safe for rowing. I’ve seen how many alligators are in that water! We didn’t get to see the Capybara at Serere but there was always the Pampas.
We were advised that to really get a feel for the jungle it was recommended that you stay a minimum of 4 days. However, after 3 days we were already feeling it in an itchy way. We were losing the war against the mosquitoes and felt it was time to move on and say good bye to the wonderful experience we had there.
Besides, it was time to leave and hit the town for a few celebratory drinks for the coming of age.
‘Serere’ to us is a truly special place and we will forever hold lifelong memories of our time there. Thank you to Brenda & Glen, Mum (Anna) and Jenny and Rob for the generous birthday money for Stuart. You all made this trip possible and the experience was priceless.
‘I want to see a Capybara.....’ Stuart says.
Our tour with Caracoles (recommended by Madidi Travel) to the Pampas started off with torrential rain, resulting in a cancelled flight, which in turn meant our fellow tour members were no longer available to make up the minimum numbers required to go ahead. We were bumped into another tour company-‘Indigena Tours.’
Our red rattling Landrover pulled up held together with duct tape and we piled in the back for a slippery 3 hour rally drive to the Pampas. We were spaciously spread out; the driver, the guide and the cook in the front, Anna (Holland), Peter (Holland) and Daniel (Chile) in the middle seats; and Stuart, myself and the water carrying boy in the back. Other vehicles seemed to pack another half-dozen tourist into their jeep but seeing the state of this vehicle, I am sure an extra body would have caused its complete disintegration. .
Just as we arrived to the pampas the rain cleared and the sun began to shine. Our half sinking boat was emptied of water and we piled in for a 2 ½ hour upstream tour to our lodgings.
The water resembled the murky rivers and inlets of any Australian brackish waterway – brown, but rich in mangroves and birdlife. We were in luck as the wet weather brought out families of Capybaras to the river’s edge. They come here to roll around and eat the mud which is rich in salt and nutrients. The boat pulled up to a family of four – mum, dad and two babies. For rodents, they were adorable and finally Stuart’s wish was granted.
Caimans floated motionlessly and menacingly. River Turtles lazed on fallen partially submerged trees along with the dragonflies. Magnificent birds of all species would launch from their trees as the boat moved by. There were even Pink River Dolphins. And Yes, they did look pink!
Most of this Pampas tour was actually a river tour done from the boat, however on the second day, our guide gave us a pair of gumboots. ‘Mmmm....gumboots equals swamp,’ she thinks. We slid them on, Stuart finding a surprise frog in the bottom, and headed to the sludge. Normally, in the wet season, this swampy grassland would be covered in water but given that it is currently the dry season, the water has receded and the land is now mostly a pasture for cows. We thought this to be a weird combination for a ‘wildlife’ tour.
Within an hour or so of slogging it through mud, tall grass and upturned hoof hollows we reached a small water hole in search of Anacondas and Cobras. Our guide whispered to us to be quiet and tread lightly. I stomped! Who really wants to see a giant sized snake anyway?
After a good half an hour of searching (and procrastinating by some parties) for snakes, our guide discovered an Anaconda amongst some dry vegetation. Excited to the same degree Steve Erwin was with stingrays, he pulled it out by its tail. I was waiting for the ‘boy, he’s a beauty,’ comment but fortunately our guide never delivered the punch line.
When frightened or stressed, Anacondas let off a bad stench as a deterrent for their enemies. This fellow was about 1.7 meters long, which was capable of eating birds, smaller alligators and new born cows. Fully grown, at 6m, they are capable of strangling and eating a human. Very interesting. Stuart was clearly intrigued and stood that little bit too close. Before he could step away, the guide shoved the snake towards him. Stunned and not knowing what to do next Stuart grabbed his tail as it was clearly a case of ....’I’d better get this before it gets me.’
I was delighted we found a snake and set off like whistling dixie to get the hell out of there.....but nooooooooooo.....it wasn’t enough for our Steven Irwin and he set off to catch another.
Our cabin was possibly the worst accommodation we have stayed in, ever. The mattresses were filthy, un-sheeted and they felt like they were made from lumps of jungle straw. Our handmade bunks were covered by bat poo and our mosquito nets were holey. Fortunately Stuart was able to repair these with our magical duct tape.
In the morning we woke up covered in dozens of bed bug bites, which is more of a discomfort than anything else. However, the real fear lies in the Vincucha bug which lives in thatched roofs and comes down at night time and bites you, leaving you with the incurable Chagas disease. The disease attacks the heart, respiratory or intestine system over several years and causes one of those systems to eventually collapse. Sadly some estimated 10-30% of Bolivians are believed to have this Chagas disease. Even more sadly, is that researchers have not bothered to find a cure as it is believed that pharmaceutical companies will not sufficiently profit selling the drugs to the poor. (Refer to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chagas_disease) Thousands of people in South American die from this disease each year and we understand that it is the single greatest cause of death here in Bolivia. I am not sure what community awareness there is but it has been encouraging to see many thatched roofs replaced with corrugated iron on many of the houses and buildings. We are confidant that we didn’t get bitten by the bugs but..... (Stuart even got a Chagas disease blood test done when he was being tested for Salmonella after his birthday – negative on Chagas, positive on Salmonella!)
Our guide programmed in a “jungle tour” on our final day but the walk proved to be a great disappointment after our amazing experience at ‘Serere.’ Our snake obsessed guide went about searching for a Cobra. I went back to stomping loud. He won. Out of nowhere, he whipped out a feisty Cobra who threw itself around like a cowboys whip. It was hissing and as quick as lightning would launch itself towards the guide’s body. It was not a happy little camper. With impressive skill, our guide calmed the snake by rubbing on the underside of his long body. It took some time for it to relax before the guide was able to secure it by the throat.
Stuart was once again standing in the wrong place at the wrong time and the guide wrapped this nasty Cobra around his neck. Stunned and gripping the snake’s throat sufficiently, Stuart stood still whilst the photos snapped. I was standing 10 metres away, white faced, ready to be there in a flash if it came to a wrestle. This was one of our final moments on the Pampas tour before heading back down stream on the boat.
The muddy roads had dried and our trip back to Rurrenabaque by jeep was back cracking as we could feel our backside grate against the corrugation below. It was heavenly to return to our hammocks at Hotel Oriental for a few nights before taking a flight back to La Paz.
As Daniel (Chile) was on the same flight, he chose to join us for dinner and stay at our same hotel in La Paz. We had some pricy but delicious Sushi. It was a fantastic meal and Daniel made for excellent company.
Returning to La Paz, we had some errands to do. Stuart had to get his rear rim replaced and brakes fixed, which failed on the hairy descent into La Paz. My bike also required some tuning. La Paz is anything but a bike friendly city so finding a reputable mechanic in itself was a chore. It was through searching the internet that I found a highly recommended bike mechanic from another cycletourist. The bike mechanic does all the repair work for Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking http://www.gravitybolivia.com or Av. 16 de Julio 1490, Edificio Avenida La Paz near Plaza Estudiante. We took our bikes into the workshop. They were clean, very professional and stocked a decent amount of good quality spare parts. Stuart’s rim now looks bomb proof and ready to roll.
We finally had no further excuses to stay on in La Paz. We had spent a small fortune in Bolivia. Our daily expenditure was on par with Argentina so it was time to live a bit more simply and head to Lake Titicaca with all our wonderful memories in tow.
Anita (and Stuart)
Posted byStuart Kane at 8:19 PM
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Good pictures and best story!.
Anita, you are a good writer. You may write a book of your travel when you return to Sidney.
A kiss for you and another for Stuart.
Diana and Gustavo.
From Rosario, Argentina.