The Navel of the Earth and surrounds
20.10.09
Click this link for a fairly short picture album of Cuzco and surrounding area. Includes night series. :^)
Click this link for a LONG album of the trek to Choquequirao. 247 photos. 9-12 minutes long. Only for those with stamina.
Click this link for a fairly short album on Machu Picchu itself.
Our mode of transportation went to an entirely different level on our way 'home' to Cuzco.
It was 930 pm on Saturday October 3. We were one hour from Santa Maria and 4 hours from Ollantaytambo and another 2 hours onto Cuzco. 11 of us had abandoned the mini van hours ago as the retread had failed - half the tread had peeled off, the spare had a hole in it and the driver had no jack. No one was willing to trust his vehicle so we had piled out and we were standing at the Gomeria (tyre shop). The local tyre shop didn't seem to have spares for his vehicle.
It had all seemed so perfect back in Santa Maria - the mini-van looked new, the driver was going to drop us within a few blocks of the hostal and our decision to not take the more expensive option of the train to Cuzco seemed absolutely correct. Unfortunately after 3 hours of waiting for an alternative our only choice in the end was to make camp - we had our tent - or to join 7 others in the back of an open topped cattle truck and jolt our way to at least Ollantaytambo.
The lonely planet describes the 'back way' to Machu Picchu as only really for die-hard independent travellers. It certainly seemed as we crawled into the back of the big 'camiones` (truck) that if we were going to die, we were going to die hard.
The truck was big - sufficient I suspect for 10-15 head of cattle. Fortunately it didn't smell like it had been used for anything but transporting human beings. The best spots we soon realised were already taken by the Peruvians. About 7 were already on board curled up under a tarpaulin. We took our position on the edge of the truck bed, sitting on our tent and Bob bag. It soon became apparent that sitting up on the bumpy gravel road wasn't an option if we wanted to keep our spines intact.
We settled into our bed, curled amongst the residual space, still amused by the situation. I mean we came within a hair's breadth of choosing the train and comfortably arriving into Cuzco with only a four hour total journey. Now we were looking down the barrel of a 24 hour journey with at least 5 hours in the back of a farm truck shivering close to death!
It was actually quite comfortable in the back of the truck. Once we were horizontal the jarring wasn't so nasty. We had lots of warm clothes and could resort to our sleeping bag if necessary - which we ultimately did. The full moon was out so there were the obvious recollections from exactly a month ago on Lake Titicaca and our honeymoon suite. How far were we from there now both literally and figuratively: about 700km and not a clean white sheet to be seen!
The moon was beautiful and climbing to the 4200m pass wasn't so bad but it did get very cold as we descended to Ollantaytambo after midnight - gravity assisting the truck to much higher speeds. Despite having a strong urge to throttle me, Anita did recognise the humour and we were fortunate to meet Sergio (Columbian) and Noriki (Japanese living in Columbia). Sergio gave us a stack of great tips for places to visit in Columbia and a suggested route into Caracas, Venezuala and onto Cuba, if we decide to go that far north...
We arrived into Ollantaytambo at about 2am, managed to find a hostal that would take us in at that hour and the next day easily got ourselves into Cuzco via two micro mini-vans just shy of 24 hours after leaving Machu Picchu Pueblo.
Machu Picchi Pueblo to Cuzco Direct Summary:
Cost Train/person = min. 150 Soles plus taxi
Time = 3-3.5 hours plus taxi time
Machu Picchu Pueblo via Hidroelectrica, Santa Teresa, Santa Maria, Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, Cuzco.
Cost =
24 Soles for train to Hidroelectrica +
2 Soles for micro to Santa Teresa +
6 Soles for micro to Santa Maria +
(25 Soles to Cuzco direct on Micro but refunded in full one hour later)
10 Soles in back of truck to Ollantaytambo +
1.2 Soles in Micro to Urubamba +
5 Soles to Cuzco
Total cost = 48.2 Soles
Time = 24 Hours
- 1/3 the price for a saving of ~$40AUD each ($80AUD for two)
- 6 times the number of hours.
- Experience: priceless!
Ridiculous what you do when you have no income and a desire to keep the bank balance positive!
We returned to Cuzco after being away for 10 days trekking to Choquequirao and Machu Picchu. After first arriving on the 16th of September, we spent around 3 weeks in and around Cuzco.
Qosq'o (Cuzco or Cusco) means navel in Quecha - the language of the Incas and still widely spoken in the Andes today. Supposedly Manco Capac, the first Inca set off from Lago Titicaca where he was born with a gold staff and was advised that he should build a city where he could plunge the staff fully into the ground. So was born Cusco, the navel of the earth.
Our first 10 days or so were spent in Cuzco itself and in the closer destinations of the Sacred Valley - Pisaq, Urubamba, and Ollantaytambo.
Cuzco is an excellent city to visit. It is facinating (and sad) to see how the conquistadors and the Catholic Church squashed the heart and soul from the Inca Empire. They have built all of the main churches on the foundations of Inca palaces and temples. The Christian religious art has an interesting mix of indigenous and Christian themes. The people themselves are no longer Inca but they seem to be Andean first and Peruvian second.
The streets of central Cuzco are narrow, cobbled, and always curious but it is at night that the city's charm comes alive. The streets and alleyways are illuminated with a warm, consistent, and yellow light that highlights the stone work - whether it is Inca foundations, majestic churches or colonial houses. The Spanish conquistadors arrived in the early 1500's so many of the buildings over 400 years old (if you don't count rebuilding them after earthquakes.)
For the first few days our attention was focussed on our insatiable appetites and satisfying them at the various restaurants and pubs such as Granje Heidi, Inca...fe, and Paddy's. In between meals we initially focussed on the main churches of San Blas, La Catedral, the Jesuit Church Compana de Jesús, the Museum of Religious Art and Church Santo Dominigo. San Blas is renowned in the world for its incredibly detailed wooden pulpit (considered the best in the world), La Catedral simply for its size and grandeur, and Compana de Jesus for its attempt at building a nicer church than La Catedral! Food and Christian indoctrination seem to go well hand and hand as we had a lovely time exploring and learning.
I haven't had the time to research on the web but the conflict between the Catholic church and the Jesuits and the result being that the Jesuits were kicked out of South America (by European Spainish decree) seems to have had quite an impact on the local people. The Jesuits seemed to have been quite keen on equality and education - not necessarily a focus of the ruling Spanish and Mestizo (mixed blood) class!
I also found our audio guide amusing as it talked about a painting in San Blas with coca leaves physically present on the painting as a great example of the church accepting local culture. We learned at the coca museum in La Paz that the church determined that Coca chewing was the work of the devil and banned it for about 5 years until the mine owners asked for the decree to be reversed as the indigenous worked harder when they had Coca. Hmmmm.
The Church Santo Dominigo is probably better known as Qorichanka - the Inca palace upon which the church is built. It is recommended as the one place you have to visit in Cuzco. We did and we were amazed at the remnant stone work of the Inca palace. The joins were so smooth you could hardly feel one stone shift to another. The museum also had a great selection of modern art.
Around Cuzco we visited Sasqayhuaman or Sasqaywaman (or 'Saxy-woman' for pronounciation), one of the main temples for the Inca. Sasqayhuaman had some of the most impressive Inca stone work of all simply for the enormity of the stones and foundations. From a distance the foundations looked like some Disneyland park dedicated to the Flintstones. The stones in the foundations were monolithic. Truly impressive to not only have moved the rock into place but then to also niche them so perfectly it seemed they had always been in this position.
We left Cuzco and our bikes for a few nights and took the bus to Pisaq to see the Sunday Markets. It was very cool to see the locals going about their weekly trading in their traditional garb. They are so used to tourists now that most barely bat an eye to the throngs of camera toting photo hounds. We watched the end of a group of three weddings in the local and tiny church. As they made their grand exit, the procession pretty much ran for the town centre as the rain pelted down.
We climbed up about 400m above the town of Pisaq to check out the ruins. It was good training for our up coming trek. Nice views, cool bits of ruins but cold and overcast weather. We managed to score a taxi ride to Urubamba at the end of the day but this turned out to be a bad decision as Urubamba is a bit of a hole in the main centre. Cold showers and single beds - no romantic honeymooning to be had in Urubamba! We did later learn that there were very nice places to stay – we were just too late to find them.
However it did get us local to Moray and the Salinas. Moray is supposedly an Inca agricultural research centre for determining the ideal locations for the ideal crops in the Andes. And the Salinas were particularly interesting as they were an operating manufacturing site - running for the last 400 to 1000(?) years to evaporate salt from a highly saline stream. The salt is sold to campesinos (farmers) for their animals.
Ollantaytambo was the end of our line. We loved this little town for its blue corn based juice called Chicha Morada. Holy yummo. The same restaurant (Mayupata) clearly had a fancy pants chef. Anita had some delicious Peruvian Nigiri and I had some amazing fresh made pasta. We went back twice. Ollantaytambo was the only place the Inca had a small victory against the Spanish. It was a site under construction when the Spanish arrived but the guide book says it is the only authentic Inca style town left. An excellent place to visit.
But with all the sight seeing our true journey was still waiting for us. You can only reach Machu Picchu Pueblo(town) by train or by walking - there are no roads to Machu Picchu Pueblo (or also known as Agua Calientes). There is an 8km dirt road (or 5km walking track) between Machu Picchu Pueblo and Machu Picchu itself. The usual method for getting to Machu Picchu is via the train from Cuzco or via one of the many front door 'Inca trails'. There is however some back door methods to Machu Picchu. Treks via Salkantay or Choquequirao are the main ones or via taxi, micro, bus on the road from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo to Santa Maria to Santa Teresa to Hidroelectrica and then either the train or walking between Hidroelectrica and Machu Picchu Pueblo. Sound complicated? It is and all primarily driven by the fact that there is no road and therefore no cheap way of getting to Machu Picchu Pueblo.
The railway is run by Peru Rail and there is a well entrenched attitude of Tourist Apartheid running in the organisation. Tourists pay a minimum of 3 times what the locals pay (back door train) and we suspect up to 10 times for the direct train to Cuzco. Even the entrance fee to Machu Picchu itself is twice the price as an international visitor to being a local. We learned from Sergio (I haven't checked myself) that Peru Rail is actually run by a Chilean company so you have to question how much of all this tourist cash is being pumped back into the local economy and local people.
But that is part of the charm and the challenge. After an excellent tip from Max Peer (southbound cyclist we met in La Paz) we opted to go in via Cachora and Choquequirao. 115km of walking and nearly 6km of vertical altitude to climb it was certainly a challenge and a half.
We caught a bus from Cuzco to Abancay and asked to be let off at Saihuite and the turn off for Cachora. The 5 Soles each for the taxi down to Cachora was interesting in that it dropped some 500m in a very short distance scaring cows, horses and passengers along the way. We knocked on the door of Marco Loayza an Arriero (muleteer) - a contact we had from Cuzco but alas he wasn't home. We were sharing a taxi with Cuzqueno (someone from Cuzco) archeologist and he suggested we stay at his hostal.
It worked out pretty well as the Hostal owners were falling over themselves to organise a mule and muleteer for us. I would have preferred to rent one from the Association of Arrieros as we found out later they do a great deal of trail maintenance voluntarily. It was, however, nearly 7pm when we arrived into town and we didn't want to spend the next day sorting mules out.
Their offer was a fair 50 Soles ($20 AUD) a day for mule and muleteer for 6+2 days hiking. 6 days for our hike and yes 2 days for mule and muleteer to return home. We thought this ridiculous at first but we were hardly going to argue to pay for more return days. We soon saw how quickly mule and muleteer moved and suspected he got home in less than 2 days anyway!
Mario the Arriero and Jovana the Mula were our muleteer and mule. The hostal owners we learned owned Jovana and charged 25 Soles / day for Jovana and 25/day for Mario. He got 20/day ($8AUD/day). As we were to learn over our 6 days with Mario this was excellent money for someone that basically just lived off the land. He and his girlfriend and 1.5 year old son basically live outside the cash economy.
We suspect that most of the food and snacks we fed him over the 6 days were of high novelty value - cereal, chocolate, corn nuts, and beer are just some of the things he ate and drank with us but would normally be way out of his budget.
Our walk began at 9am on Saturday September 26. It soon became clear that we were going to struggle to survive the walk in 6 days and we weren't carrying anything but a day bag! The first descent was punishing. 1400m and very steep. We didn't get to lunch until 3pm near the Rio Apurimac. It is a beaut river and all the more interesting in that it eventually flows into the Amazon and goes all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. Crazy when you think we were less than 500km (as the crow flies) to the Pacific Ocean.
It is difficult to really indulge in the beauty of the Apurimac as the midgees are horrendous. They are particularly voracious at and below 2000m. They are much worse than mosquitos and indeed by the time we got back to Cuzco Anita had to get some Anti-histamines and cortazone cream to reduce her swelling reaction to all her bites.
Santa Rosa Alta was magnificent for a first camp and the views were to die for. What we soon learned is that there are small camps along the way for the whole trip and that you are basically committed to getting to them for a camp. In between it is too steep to go off the track for a camp site. The camps all have relatively level platforms on which to camp and between Cachora and Choquequirao there are basic cold water showers and toilets. Pretty decadent bush walking!
Choquequirao was a very special place to visit. We have read that it is suspected to be 3 times the size of Machu Picchu. Excavation only began in the early 1990’s and so they are still in the process of uncovering it. You get the feeling that Choquequirao has more 'urban sprawl' than Machu Picchu. The top area is significantly less dense but the terracing extends down either side so clearly supported a large population. It was very cool to visit such a significant and relatively untouched Inca ruin and to basically have it to ourselves. We suggest you get in quick as we don't believe it will stay this way for long.
From Choquequirao the trek became more remote and wild. On the way to Maizal there were MORE Choquequirao terrace ruins to see. It was excellent to see as they were built in an arc to match the gully. The aqueducts were still running with water AND the archeologists were growing pumpkin style vegetables on the terraces. It was a living monument to the Inca's. At Maizal there was just one family living there. 1 Soles each to camp but no shower. The pit toilet, however, did have a view to die for!
From Maizal to Yanama we were shrouded in cloud but we had a great day regardless. The fog created a spooky atmosphere. It was constantly shifting so the views were unveiled from time to time: kind of like a theatre curtain lifting to show the next scene.
Yanama to Totora was pretty tough - a 4600m pass to cross but once done the back of the walk was broken and the massive descent wasn't nearly as torturous as our first day.
At Collapampa Mario said to us after the first beer that he would always remember his time with us. We shared 2L between the three of us but without a doubt Mario was buzzing the most from it. We will always remember how well you took care of us Mario. And though you will never read this, we appreciate getting to know some of your life as one of the poorest (in cash) and richest (in life) Peruvians around. It was a beautiful part of the experience.
All Mario carried was a tiny, borrowed mochilla (backpack) and a blue foam mattress (which was given to him by another Dutch couple on a previous trip). While it was our obligation to feed him; our tent, sleeping bags, therma-rest mattresses, goretex jacket and pants, and fancy shoes all seemed rather exorbitant. Our optimus stove cost only a little less than Jovana (the mule)! About 1200 Soles. No wonder gringos are viewed as walking ATM machines!
It was an excellent reminder of just how demanding our society is on this planet with all the things we 'need'.
Places like Maizal, Yanama, Totora, Collapampa only get things from the 'outside' when they are brought there by a mule. Most of their daily lives are made from the earth(adobe homes), what grows from the earth and what animals graze on the earth. Talk about sustainable living! Even Mario, in Cachora with a road, has no electricity, or in house water. He cooks on a fire and eats what he grows - vegetables, Cuy/Guinea Pig, Goats.
So it was strange when we arrived near La Playa and met a road with cars. Strange, bizarre, confronting, smelly. But don't get me wrong - our feet were mashed - we weren't going to turn down a ride in one!
We said a sad goodbye to Mario and the micro took us from La Playa to Santa Teresa in time to catch the next micro to the Hidroelectrica plant in time to catch the train to Machu Picchu Pueblo. Perfect planning if we had planned it!
Aguas Calientes is a ramschackle town built expressly for housing tourists there to visit Machu Picchu. It isn't the prettiest town but it is certainly one of the most expensive. Prices are driven primarily on the lack of sufficient competition and the necessity of bringing everything in on the train.
But the valley that the town is built in through to Machu Picchu and beyond to the Hidroelectrica plant is phenomenal. Temperate rain forest, covering a narrow gorge gives Machu Picchu the exotic feel that it has. And all the photos of Machu Picchu make you think all of Peru is like this valley. Nope. This is a magical place and it is worth the effort to get there one day despite the costs.
We were too shattered to get up early and indeed we were going to wait another day but the weather fined up around 11am and as it is fairly unpredictable we went against the crowds and walked up around lunch time and spent the afternoon there. This worked out perfectly as most of the hordes were departing just as we arrived. And while it wasn't as empty as the photos make it seem it was quiet enough for us to have a lot of it to ourselves.
After much deliberation we did choose to go back out the 'back door' which got us into our refugee truck.
Back in Cuzco we had the Inka Museum to visit and a new found love for Jack's restaurant. Jack's is run by Australian woman that left Brisbane and then Sydney to go to Cuzco. We ended up staying an extra day to sort out some 1500 photos taken in just 3 weeks around the 'navel' but really it was to get fat on Fluffy pancakes with mango, bananas and cream, Nachos, and Manly style breakfasts.
We finally broke free of the clutches of Cuzco and started our ride to Lima via Nazca and the coast. We are very excited about seeing the ocean again. We haven't seen it since we said goodbye back in Quintero, Chile in early May - 5 months ago!
Stuart and Anita
Posted byStuart Kane at 1:40 PM
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A lot of beautifull pictures and a good and instructive text!.
Regards.
Diana and Gustavo.
Rosario.
Argentina