Bike About South America with Stuart and Anita

Trinidad - Yaguanabo - Cienfuegos - Santa Clara

Two world Heritage Cities and one Relvolutionary City all in close proximity couldn't be ignored so we got off the bus at Trinidad and chilled for two days and two nights to begin our riding and cultural experience on the central south coast of Cuba.

Our first day was spent chilling in the heat at our lovely Casa Particulares on the roof top terrace drinking 3 year old Havana Club Rum and tuKola and reading “100 years of Solitude” to each other. While Gabriel Garcia Marquez is Colombian and his story is completely Colombian we have learned that the city of Baracoa is possibly the inspiration of his protagonist town, Macondo. We didn't actually visit Baracoa (down near Santiago de Cuba) so the cultural link is tenuous to say the least but it is an excellent story and I was very happy to be re-reading some of it to Anita in the warm afternoon shade. We went for a walk after a delicious dinner and found a Casa de la Trova and enjoyed listening to the music and watching the salsa. Anita was very sad that I wasn't confidant enough to get up and swing her about for a while but we enjoyed being voyeurs none the less. 

On our second day we went early to the beach and snuck into another Club Amigo All Inclusive full of more Canadians. We didn't indulge on any food or drink choosing instead to keep a low profile due to our trespassing. We spent most of the day there reading in the shade and paddling about at a great little beach and shallow swimming hole protected from the sea by a big rock shelf. Perfect kids beach if you are thinking to go to Cuba. (Can't vouch for the food or accommodation though.)

Hunger finally spurned us into action and we rode our bikes back to Grill Caribe just a kilometer away. There was a small Mafia ring operating there with a man charging a parking fee. He wanted 50 cents per bicycle. Extortionate when we were within sight of the bikes and his security services were undesired. He seemed to be making good money from the other cyclists and car drivers though so happy days for him!

We did a quick detour to Playa Ancon and the two more expensive resorts. Nice beach but the wind was up so we rolled on 'home' to Trinidad and had a quick chat to Alberto along the way.  I am pretty sure he said he was in Athens for the Olympics and ran the marathon in2h15m but I can’t find him on the net so maybe I misunderstood his Spanish (likely). We gave him a big drink of water and declined his offer to purchase him a new pair of running shoes and headed home. He does that run every day so if you want to bring him a pair, you will undoubtedly find him!

That evening we had dinner at the Casa Particulares and dined on MASSIVE lobster.  Anita was beside herself with excitement and I have to say that for $15CUC I was pretty pleased with grilled Cuban Langosta myself.  We had a great night chatting with two girls living in Amsterdam (one Polish and one Bulgarian).  Life doesn’t get much better on the Casa Particulares circuit in Cuba.  You are helping to create a middle class, you are getting great food and service, and you are sleeping well knowing that you are helping to subvert Communist ideals and be a force of change. 

The next morning we took the scenic route back along the coast near Playa Ancon and via La Boca only to realise that our scenic route had tacked on 20km to our day and we ended up back in Trinidad.  It was a little irritating as I got a flat tyre as well but really it was no bother as we got to meet Lazaro and his fish.  He was a friendly fellow and you could tell he was dying to have a way to work the tourist trade but to his credit he did not attempt anything.  We were finally on our way out of Trinidad by 11 am, smashing through the initial crab carnage and landed at Yaguanabo just 25km later.  It was a government resort but the prices were too good to refuse so we called it a day and chilled out for the afternoon chatting to some Norwegians (more of them here in Cuba than in Norway!) and specifically Kare who was planning to start cycle touring in Cuba himself in 2 weeks time.  (We did meet Kare again in Vinales on our second last day in Cuba.)

We left early the day to beat the heat and the carnal smell of crushed crab.  It is a bit sad to see all of them but they are a victim of their own genetic success thinking that if they stand their ground they will overcome adversity.  Unfortunately despite some half hearted weaving on the part of the tour bus drivers the crabs are clearly losing the battle.

Cienfuegos was a lovely town.  We enjoyed our walking tour down to the Palacio de Valle. Watching very young Jineteros dance with their middle aged ladies, the Salsa music emanating from the 5 piece band and the views of the sunset all conspired to create a beautiful evening.  Cienfuegos is the launching pad for the great Benny More.  It is one of my few regrets about Cuba that Anita was too sick for us to go out that night and get more familiar with the great man and his music.

Villa Santa Clara was calling so we bolted out early to beat the head wind.  It was a moderately successful strategy but unfortunately the main highlight of the ride for me was some delicious Peso Pizza in a town about 30km from Santa Clara.

The highlight for the day was without doubt the Che Guevara monument.  We have been following some of Che’s Motorcycle Diary trail since we arrived in Santiago de Chile.  In reality he didn’t actually spend much time on a motorcycle as the bike was a bit of a dud.  He is one of the defining figures of South America, a legend that has transcended time and even understanding.  I have no doubt that he would be both very proud of and a little disappointed in today’s Cuba.  I was pleased to see his resting place as I have a huge amount of respect for his passion and compassion for the people. Even though I have little regard for ‘revolution’ in today’s world, you can't help but be amazed that 12 men were able to overthrow Batista's dictatorship.  It was in Santa Clara that Che lead a revolutionary force that effectively scuttled Batista’s army and sent Batista himself scampering overseas forever. 

We managed to hop a bus the same evening for Varadero and we were very relieved to finally have a shower about 9pm that night and have a nice dinner with a Belgian/Slovak couple Dona and Bort who were also doing some cycle touring in Cuba.  I think they were the only ones on the bus interested in speaking to us do to the odorous environ surrounding our personal space!

While the loop isn’t going to win any awards in the cycle touring game it was a very pleasant ride: it just can’t compete with the south east of Cuba.  That said, for a short visit to Cuba, it is an excellent area to visit with its two great UNESCO cities and third immensely historical city. The area certainly deserves more time than we gave it but our Cuban cycle touring degustation must continue!