Bike About South America with Stuart and Anita

We woke to a blue sky, with only an intent to have a quick walk and a look at the famous Playa Varadero. But as we strolled up the beach we were seduced by the soft sand, turquoise waters and gentle rustling of Royal Palm fronds. There was no way we were leaving that day. After breakfast we took the bikes East along the beach to explore. The resorts from the road were all pretty similar - architectural monstrosities. There were however many very beautiful cars to admire, the odd old fort and an easterly to keep us cool.

We hit the end of the road up near the golf course and laid up against the shade of the limestone wall, read books, admired that glorious Carribean sea and watched the multitudes of 'all-inclusives' stroll beyond their enclaves to explore the white sands of Varadero.

Brendan Sainsbury comments in his guide book that Varadero is nearly as far away from the 'real' Cuba as you can get. Interaction with Cubanos is actively discouraged. There are no Casa Particulares and no Paladares (private restaurants). Everything is owned by the government either in whole or in partnership with off-shore resort companies.

My initial expectation was to be horrified by the place but while culturally vacuous it does carry a calmness about it. In Varadero, there is no stress. It is easy going; just make your contribution to the Cuban economy and enjoy the wonderfully white sands of Varadero. If Sun, Sand, and Salubrious-ness is what you need then book tour trip here tomorrow.

We only stayed two nights but our Cuban degustation had a schedule so we left despite not quite being white sand and turquoise water fulfilled. We rolled on out towards the town of Matanzas. The tail wind was blowing again, right on schedule. We covered the 40km in not much more than an hour. We were truly flying with the road hugging much of the coast; the views were interesting and the road gloriously flat.

We stopped in Matanzas for a mid morning snack with some bread we had purchased across the road from a cute little beach. Bread at a 'Peso Pan' shop costs about 20 cents per loaf. You bring your own bag and it looks like you can buy as much as you want after waiting in the queue. We bought two loaves and enjoyed our (imported) Peanut Butter and (Cuban) Guava Paste sandwiches next to the sea.

In Matanzas we narrowly avoided the Jinetero's trying to sell us accommodation in town by telling us our next destination was 'muy lejo' (very far). We laughed and they regretfully confirmed we were on the right road to Ranchon Gaviota and the Valle de Yumuri.

We climbed with some trepidation in the sweltering heat but as we rolled over the small pass and others confirmed our course and we crossed through the 'Portal of Tranquility'. The portal was unsigned and unmarked but once you were through, you knew you were there.  The road was a little rough but somehow that ceased to matter. The tail wind eased us forward and rustled the leaf-less beanpod-filled trees with a hypnotic sound. Anita and I entered a trance like state as our pedalling became effortless. The sounds of the delightful cries of the children playing near the road floated in the air as we approached each tiny hamlet. Many gave us encouraging High-5's like we were running a marathon past their house - which I suppose to them we were.

We stopped at one point to have a rest and a drink and we had to consciously force ourselves to get back on the bikes. The mental will was not to overcome any sort of physical fatigue but rather to overcome the sedentary and almost zen like state of being in the Valle Yumuri which surely must translate to the Valley of Tranquility.

But amazingly we did have the will power and soon enough we found Ranchon Gaviota where we converged with Tour Buses and a 4WD Safari convoy from Varadero. The place was clearly part of the Government run establishment but unlike the usual experience the food was fresh, delicious and bountiful. Thankfully we only ordered one dish but it was enough to feed four people. The post lunch Cafe Cubano (Cuban coffee) was the best coffee I have ever tasted – short black with cane sugar. It was organic, full flavoured and swirled over my tastebuds long after the actual coffee was gone.  We sat on the porch and lolled the afternoon away talking to Canadians on tour. Even now, long after our departure I can recall our afternoon at Ranchon Gaviota to the tiniest detail – surely a caffeine fuelled awareness...

After lunch we continued on past a man with Oxen and cart, old brown 1950’s cars and a woman waiting for her son to pick her up with his horse and cart. We had a short conversation with her confirming directions; she was full of smiles and eager to help. We couldn't believe the Cuba we were discovering so close to Varadero and Havana.

We left Valle Yumuri and exited the western 'Portal of Tranquility' and onto the Via Blanca to find a place to sleep for the night. The western portal is marked by an overpass to nowhere, a legacy of the Russian funded highway project in the early 1990’s. As it was the 3rd of April we tried to stay at an All-Inclusive called Villa El Tropico. They said they were full but their attitude suggested they were only 'full'. Discouraged we rolled onto another resort and we were advised that the resort was 'full' or actually Cubano only. By the time we got to the third place, Campismo Los Cocos, that was 'full' we had completely forgotten the Valle of Yumuri and its tranquility and could only recall the irritations of Communist Cuba. Perseverance finally paid off and on our fourth attempt we landed a room at Villa Loma. It was reasonably priced and the food prices were Cubano so dirt cheap.  Salvation was ours (mine? :-) and there was still time to salvage a memorable anniversary the following day.

We chilled by the pool to the overpowering sounds of Cubano and English rock music while we watched the Habano (from Havana) families and children enjoy their Saturday evening and weekend away from the big smoke.  The kids all knew how to swim and we were amused that both the girls and the boys all grooved to the pumping music between games of tag, ice cream and diving off the rock into the pool. 

The next day we biked onto Playa del Este and after another few misses of resorts being duds, 'full', or closed down we finally found Hotel Tropicoco. The room was brilliant with views to the sea, the alcohol was 'free' and the mood on the beach on the Sunday afternoon pure Cuba. It was packed full of Habanos playing music, dancing and drinking. The carnival atmosphere was heavy. Cubano men were hitting on Gringa (foreigner) girls, boozed up gringos were dancing to the groovy tunes of multiple 5 piece bands (trumpets, bass, guitars, percussion), and old men lazed on the beach with their young Jinetera girl 'friends'. It was classic Cuba and it was a very memorable way to spend an anniversary. 

We wondered whether it was fair to say we were still on honeymoon when we were celebrating our first anniversary but we decided that the honeymoon would soon be over anyway so why end it now!?

We woke to yet another tail wind that blew us all the way to Cojimar and the birthplace of Hemingway's Noble prize winning Old Man and the Sea. It was very cool to see Gregorio Fuentes' house and eat in La Terraza and check out the old Black and White photos on the wall of Hemingway/Fidel, Gregorio and Santiago (the Old Man). We were only recently introduced to Hemingway and Old Man and the Sea since Lima when we caught up with Duncan. (Thanks mate!). We had listened to the book via an audio version narrated by some perfectly crusty old fellow and even a few months later Anita loves to say in a croaky voice 'I wish the boy was here' ....If you haven't read it, make sure you do soon. It really is one of the best. 

It was strange to roll back through Havana/Habana past the forts of El Morro and La Cabana, catch the ferry and ride through Havana Vieja. The ferry ride across the harbour was reminiscent of Sydney except that we were security checked before boarding.  We mulled it over and decided it was not to stop terrorists but rather to stop hijackers making off to Miami! In Havana, we met up with some Australians, Mark and Mary, who were asking us questions about cycle touring as they were about to set out on their own journey. We were blessed as our exchange of information gained us some of their chain lube to loosen Anita's front deraileur - a necessity for the Sierra del Rosaria west of Havana. 

We caught the tail wind to the beaches west of Havana to Mayda's Casa Particulares and relaxed in preparation for our assault on Vinales the following morning....

Stuart and Anita